Feature by: Jo Baker
Kangaroo, cooked slowly over the open fire, paired with youlk and finished with a wattleseed glaze, served beneath the vast sky of the Pinnacles Desert. Paperbark-wrapped marron infused with bloodroot, drawing in the scent and stillness of the karri forest. And, for something sweet, the bright notes of gubinge, green ants and boab enjoyed as the Kimberley glows at sunset.
These are the curated imaginings of a true dreamer, the head chef of Fervor, Paul (Yoda) Iskov.
Dreamer Paul 'Yoda' Iskov preparing food at Pair'd, Margaret River
Fervor is Yoda’s vision of a roving restaurant that moves with the seasons, celebrates the knowledge and generosity of local Indigenous Elders, and offers something deeper than a traditional degustation. Each long table is shaped by its surroundings - an experience that brings people into wondrous landscapes through food, wine, and story. Every ingredient is chosen with intention, every pairing guided by a sense of place, and every shared moment celebrating this incredible Country and the flavours gathered from it.
“I’ve always been curious about native Australian ingredients,” says Yoda, whose career has taken him from Restaurant Amuse in Perth to some of the world’s leading kitchens, including Noma (Copenhagen), D.O.M. (São Paulo) and Pujol (Mexico City).
“Over the past 20 years, I’ve been fascinated by the incredible array of ingredients found across Western Australia - each as unique as the diversity of this place. The ingredients found in the Kimberley, the Pilbara and the Great Southern all tell completely different stories.”
Locally foraged ingredients, Koomal Dreaming. Photo credit: Frances Andrijich
For Yoda, understanding these seasonal flavours comes from spending time on Country - learning from Traditional Custodians, listening to the stories behind each ingredient, and exploring the wild places they’re gathered from.
“Those moments on Country shape how we cook. They remind us to approach every ingredient with respect and to keep things simple so it’s true flavour can shine.”
He discovered one of his favourite ingredients while spending time in the Goldfields with Aunty Marjorie Stubbs and Aunty Edie Ulrich, both Tjupan women who speak the Tjupan language.
“Honey ants tell an incredible story about Country,” says Yoda. “The flavour is so unique, and when you see the care and effort that goes into gathering them, you really understand how special they are. It’s wonderful to watch Aunty Marjorie and Aunty Edie passing their knowledge and language on to the younger generation.”
Nature's table event at Pair'd, Margaret River
Having been fortunate enough to cook right across Western Australia and set long tables in some of the state’s most remarkable landscapes, Yoda finds it almost impossible to choose a single standout moment.
“The energy at our event in the Pinnacles was something special. It felt like a dream. I’d love to do that again,” smiles Yoda. “And something we did last year was cooking in the beautiful karri forests of the Margaret River Region on Wadandi Noongar Country – a beautiful long table focused on hyper-local and native ingredients with guidance by Zac Webb.
“You’re walking through the forest or along the nearby beaches, and you can see these ingredients – they're right there. It gives you a real sense of place.”
Like his namesake, Yoda has guided and inspired many chefs over the years, encouraging them to explore native ingredients with respect and to share the stories of where those flavours come from.
Where the red sand meets with the Indian ocean in the Kimberley, Australia's North West
“There are so many talented chefs, and it’s great to see more of them using native ingredients and acknowledging their origins - whether they’re working with produce from the Margaret River Region along the coast, the Pilbara, or the Kimberley. Each region has its own ingredients and its own story.”
Published in January 2026.