Fall in love (with the Kimberley)
Feature by Julie Hosking
When it rains in Australia’s North West, it pours. As the heavens open every wet season, they leave their magical mark all over this vast wilderness in the shape of wondrous waterfalls. While some flow year round, they burst into life from December to April, crashing down ancient cliffs and towering over ochre gorges. Many are only accessible by boat, plane or helicopter; others are just a short drive from Kununurra (Goonoonoorrang). No matter how you reach the Kimberley’s cascading queens, you’ll fall in love. Forever.
Mitchell Falls, Mitchell River National Park
There is no better way to get a sense of the sheer size of the Kimberley – one of the world’s last great wilderness areas – than from the air. Take a flight from Kununurra over Mitchell River National Park and marvel at the unforgettable Mitchell Falls (Punamii-Uunpuu). Helispirit also lands at the top of the falls, where you’ll be hypnotised by the avalanche descending through tiers of emerald pools. If you have time, the 8.6km return walking trail is well worth the effort (and the refreshing swim along the way).
Mitchell Falls, Mitchell River National Park
Horizontal Falls, Lalang-gaddam Marine Park
These incredible forces of nature left their imprint on the legendary David Attenborough, who declared the Horizontal Falls (Garaan-gaddim) one of the world’s greatest natural wonders. As your scenic flight glides over the sparkling jewels of the Buccaneer Archipelago towards Talbot Bay, you’ll find yourself nodding in awestruck agreement. Formed by huge tidal movements of up to 10 metres, swirling waters are pushed through two narrow gorges of the McLarty Range, creating the sideways phenomenon that gives the world’s only horizontal waterfalls their name.
Horizontal Falls, Lalang-gaddam Marine Park
Revolver Falls, Lake Argyle
One of the lesser-known treasures in the Kimberley, Revolver Falls is also Western Australia’s largest single drop waterfall. Soak in this singular beauty on a remote edge of Lake Argyle – a stunning man-made lake that holds more water than 20 Sydney Harbours - from the air. If the journey over Carr Boyd Range doesn't leave you breathless, the luscious landing will. Step from your helicopter onto the escarpment, where rains have coated the red and purple-hued clifftops in shades of green, creating a fairytale setting for Revolver’s 130-metre plunge.
King George Falls, North Kimberley Marine Park
Twin waterfalls doesn’t come any higher in Western Australia than this dazzling duo. Plunging 100 metres over striking red sandstone cliffs, the King George Falls (Oomari) are a sight from above or below. Hidden in beautiful Balanggarra Country, where the traditional custodians know them as female and male Wunkurr (Rainbow Serpents), this mystical pairing cannot be reached by road. You will need to book a scenic flight from Kununurra or Broome (Rubibi) or a cruise up the King George River gorge to see (and hear) them in all their thunderous glory.
King George Falls, North Kimberley Marine Park
King Cascades, Prince Regent National Park
Experience the might of King Cascades in exhilarating fashion. Book a tour along the Prince Regent River – one of Australia’s straightest – between sheer 50-metre cliffs. As the boat edges closer to the spectacular terraced waterfall be sure to grab a spot on the deck to see the Cascades in full force and catch a little spray. It’s a natural high. You can also take a flight over the Cascades and soak up the truly regal Prince Regent National Park, home to more than 500 species of plants and half the Kimberley’s known birds and animals, including saltwater crocodiles.
Molly Springs, Ngamoowalem Conservation Park
You don’t have to be big to leave a lasting impression. Molly Springs (Galjiba) may only be a few metres across but this sweet oasis just outside Kununurra is popular with locals for good reason. It’s every bit as pretty as it is refreshing. Slip into the spring under shady trees as the little waterfall cascades over rocks, birds darting here and there. You may even spot a goanna or two.
Molly Springs, Ngamoowalem Conservation Park
Middle Springs, Ngamoowalem Conservation Park
Nearby Middle Springs (Mayiba), despite its name, sits at the end of a series of eight seasonal pools and waterfalls in the Ngamoowalem Conservation Park. Dramatic rocks surround the serene bathing spot at the base of the waterfall, with a large sandy bank making it easy to wade in and out. The fleet-footed can climb the rocks to follow the waterfalls (and natural swimming pools). The view from the top is worth the hike, too.
Black Rock Falls, Ngamoowalem Conservation Park
Another popular waterhole for Kununurra and Wyndham locals, not least because it provides cool respite year round, Black Rock Falls (Theegoyeng) transforms in the wet season when the waterfall is in full flight. The sheer cliff stained black from the minerally water tumbling down the sides provides stark contrast to the burnt-red rocks either side and a striking backdrop for a memorable swim.
The Grotto, Kununurra
The deep rock pool at the bottom of The Grotto beckons you down 140 steps to one of the loveliest picnic spots. Between Kununurra and Wyndham, this gorgeous gorge lifts spirits and soothes souls in equal measure. The 120-metre cliff face at one end of the pool transforms into a magnificent waterfall in the wet season. Swim up for a sensational shower. There are even ropes tied to trees if you fancy swinging into the cool, clear water like Tarzan.
Emma Gorge, El Questro Wilderness Park
Nestled in the heart of El Questro Wilderness Park, about an hour’s drive from Kununurra, Emma Gorge is one of the Kimberley’s most accessible gorges. While the park is closed during the wet season, the water is still flowing come May when cooler temperatures take the sting out of the hour-long climb over rocky terrain to the top. Of course, the destination is worth every step – a serene waterhole fringed by dramatic cliffs, with a droplet waterfall crowning an out-of-the-world experience. You won’t want to leave.
Emma Gorge, El Questro Wilderness Park
Published April 2024.