Feature by Max Brearley
A place that tells a different story to many of the cities in Western Australia, Kalgoorlie is what could be termed as the real outback; brimming with tales of the State’s past, but also still very much a mining community.
Uncover the history of the Goldfields
For a view of past and present head to the Museum of the Goldfields (Hannan Street, Kalgoorlie). View the vault where millions of dollars of gold exhibits are on display, artifacts from makeshift wooden bicycles to archive pictures and stories from the first discovery of gold by Patrick Hannan and Tom Flanngan back in 1893. From the viewing deck of the Ivanhoe Headframe, relocated to the museum, take a view out over the city towards the gilded dome of Kalgoorlie Courthouse. At one time these towering headframes were a common sight throughout the goldfields, before open cut mining took hold.
At Mount Charlotte Reservoir and Lookout (Sutherland St, Williamstown), another impressive view, and consider that the reservoir was part of the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme, completed in 1903. Pumping water almost 600km from Mundaring it was an engineering feat that many thought not possible. It is now at the end of the Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail.
For a view of a working mine, the Super Pit Lookout (Outram Street, Fimiston) is the place to head. 600 metres deep, 1.5km wide and 3.7km in length, the KCGM Super Pit is Australia’s largest gold mine.
Hit the road and get hands on. At the Gwalia Ghost Town and Museum, around 220km north of Kalgoorlie, learn how mining shaped communities and ultimately how whole towns migrated on the shutdown of a minesite. See the house built by former US President Herbert Hoover, when he was for a time, the mine manager.
Gwalia Museum
Experience the art of prospecting
Experiences like Gold Nugget Tours are a taste of amateur prospecting, scouring the bush with expert equipment you may make a find, becoming attuned to the high-pitched frequency of the detector. Sat by the campfire on an outback bush camp, is all part of the experience; as is sinking a well earned beer at an outback pub like the Broad Arrow Tavern (492 Railway Street, Broad Arrow) famed for its graffiti strewn walls as much as its cold beer.
The KCGM Super Pit Lookout
Discover local sculptures
Off the trail of gold, experiencing Inside Australia, the installation of 51 iron figures by Sir Antony Gormley at Lake Ballard is an outback experience that won’t be forgotten. Whilst day visits are possible, camping overnight by the lake offers the perfect atmosphere to experience this world famous artists work against the backdrop of red dust and sunrise, walking out over the salt lake, many times without another soul in sight.
Relax with comfort food and a cold beer
The architecture of many of the pubs of Kalgoorlie and nearby Boulder harks back to the gold rush days, with grand facades and ornate interiors. Dinner on the balcony at the Palace Hotel (137 Hannan St, Kalgoorlie) is a quintessential Kalgoorlie experience, with a menu of comfort aimed squarely at hungry miners. You won’t go hungry in the Goldfields. The Recreation Hotel (140 Burt St, Boulder) a grand corner hotel is a slice of Australian pub life, with a good line in wood fired pizza. Finally, head to the Beaten Track Brewery (25A Dwyer St, South Boulder) for a taste of Kalgoorlie craft beer.
Antony Gormley Sculptures
Published February 2019.