Feature by Carolyn Beasley
Rottnest Island / Wadjemup, is a place where nature reigns, where outrageous turquoise rockpools meet blinding beaches, and sandy, salty visitors cruise around on bikes. This is one of Perth / Boorloo’s favourite playgrounds, and during September, Rottnest becomes the world’s cutest, fluffiest and largest quokka maternity ward. Tiny faces are peeking at the world from cosy pouches, and some joeys are taking their first wobbly, baby hops. With so many bouncing, bundles of joy, you’re invited to a special party; Little Quokka’s Big Birthday Weekend.
Rottnest Island, just a 30-minute ferry ride from Fremantle / Walyalup, is home to an estimated 10,000-12,000 quokkas, whose faces look like they’re always smiling. They’ve been dubbed the world’s happiest animal, and why wouldn’t they be? They have no introduced predators and the adoration of visitors.
To acknowledge the love for quokkas, special celebrations are organised annually. The main event, Little Quokka’s Big Birthday Weekend is two days packed with family fun. Join a quokka photography workshop, or get crafty making eco inspired art. Learn about Aboriginal culture through interactive activities, and listen to eco-education talks. Events are also held on other select weekends in September, celebrating the wonder of nature. Activities are free, but registration is required.
Quokka mother and her joey on Rottnest Island
While September may be the cutest month, there are quokkas to be found here all year. Every day (except Christmas Day), visitors can learn more on a free quokka walking tour with the Rottnest Voluntary Guides Association.
Volunteer guide Lesley Gasmier says there are a few surprising facts about these adorable relatives of the kangaroo.
“When they get really hungry and they can see some green leaves, they can actually climb the tree to reach them, up to about a metre high,” Lesley says. But with plenty of grass around now, it’s not something visitors are likely to see in the coming weeks.
Baby quokkas are born after a one-month pregnancy; furless, blind and only one centimetre long. Most joeys on Rottnest are born from February to April, and after six months developing in the pouch, they’re ready to face the world, but dive back into their Mother’s pouch for security, warmth, and milk. Like all members of the kangaroo family, quokkas practice embryonic diapause, meaning a female can have a joey in the pouch, with another fertilised embryo on standby.
Quokka joey on Rottnest Island
The fluffy superstars are usually found munching grass and bushes in the early mornings and late afternoons, and sleeping under a tree in the midday hours. While quokkas are found right across the island there are a few popular hotspots to seek them.
Behind the Thomson Bay jetty, you’ll find quokkas frequenting the settlement, especially under fig trees. A five-minute walk from here brings you to the samphire-fringed Garden Lake. From the boardwalk, check under tea trees, a favourite snoozing spot. Heading north, walk or cycle to the popular swimming beach of the Basin, where small groups of quokkas rest in the bushland opposite the glamping resort Discovery Rottnest Island.
Thomson Bay, Rottnest Island
Another almost-certain sighting will be visitors trying perfect the ‘quokka selfie.’ Emulating stars like Roger Federer and Sam Kerr, amateur photographers lie on the grass, posing with smiling marsupials.
Guide Lesley points out that caution is needed with selfies, as the safety of the quokkas and visitors is paramount. Quokkas are a vulnerable species, protected by law, and visitors should stay two metres away from the animals. It’s important not to touch the quokkas, even if they approach, and since human food makes them sick, allow them to find their own natural foods.
“The best thing is to not get too close, probably best to get someone else to take the photo,” Lesley says. “And remember that he or she is a little wild animal in their own environment. We’re actually very lucky to be able to walk around in their presence, without having them in a cage.”
Monitoring the health of the quokka population is the role of the Rottnest Island Authority and occurs annually.
Quokka in the brush on Rottnest Island
“It is critical that the quokka population is monitored and well managed,” says Arvid Hogstrom, director of environment, heritage and parks for the Rottnest Island Authority. “Conserving Rottnest Island’s biodiversity is a strategic focus area for the Rottnest Island Authority.”
A surprising fact to many is that quokkas also live on the mainland. Once widespread throughout the southwestern forests, today the mainland quokkas are highly threatened. Mainland quokkas now live mostly in the Southern Forests, particularly around Northcliffe, where WWF-Australia has been conducting quokka research.
While the mainland quokkas are very reclusive, quokka lovers can rest assured that the world’s happiest animal awaits at Rottnest Island, and this year’s curious joeys can’t wait to meet you.
Published September 2023.