At one time the growing of black truffle in Western Australia’s South West was a curiosity, with the fungus more associated with Périgord in the south of France.
Nowadays, the annual pilgrimage of truffle lovers to Western Australia is less about curiosity and more about a knowledge that they’ll be able to taste a world-class ingredient, get behind the scenes on truffle orchards, and learn at least some of the secrets of the growers.
Just over three hours from Perth, Manjimup and Pemberton, collectively known as the Southern Forests region, are now the preeminent producer of black truffle in the southern hemisphere. Much of the harvest is exported to Asia, North America and Europe, finding its way to many of the world’s top restaurants during the season that runs, depending on conditions, from early June until September. But there’s still plenty for the chefs and home cooks of Western Australia.
In Perth, you’ll find many chefs and restaurants showcasing truffle specials in season, either in dishes conceptualised around the ingredient, or as a supplement on their standard menu. It’s not a case of who is using truffle, more who isn’t. WA Good Food Guide’s annual Truffle Unearthed program of dining events held throughout Perth and the South West offers elevated experiences, where truffles are at the heart of everything.
For a true truffle adventure, you really need to hit the road from Perth to the South West. En route to the towering karri and jarrah of the Southern Forests you skirt through the Peel region and down through the Blackwood River Valley. Here you’ll pass the picture-perfect towns of Balingup and Bridgetown, where you’ll find The Cidery and Blackwood Valley Brewing Co. (43 Gifford Rd, Bridgetown), who produce a seasonal Truffle Ale and a Truffle Cider. An acquired taste, but for the truffle faithful, it’s a must-visit.
Manjimup truffles
Held in late June each year, Truffle Kerfuffle has over a decade grown into one of the most well-known truffle festivals in the world. Drawing visitors from all corners who are eager to be guided through the truffle orchards and see highly trained dogs sniffing out “black gold” for their handlers. The program includes a central marketplace where you can buy truffles direct from growers, as well as wine tastings and dining events with the state’s top culinary names and visiting talent (previous guests include Mark Best, Guy Grossi, James Viles, Marianne Lumb, Jack Stein, Analiese Gregory, and Duncan Welgemoed). The festival, commonly running for three days, is centred around historic Fonty’s Pool, itself surrounded by truffle farms and other primary producers, who have given the Southern Forests a deserved reputation as the state’s food bowl.
Hunting for truffles at Truffle Hill, Manjimup
Manjimup truffles
Outside of the festival there are a handful of growers who open their orchards throughout the season. Some, like Australian Truffle Traders, have regular bookable tours that are family-friendly explorations. You follow a trained handler and their dog, kicking up leaves from the oak and hazelnut trees as you go, before the dog – having gotten the scent – marks the spot with a tap of its paw. Hands and trowels are used to prise out the truffle which could be a perfect little 30-gram specimen or whoppers that register in the hundreds of grams. Guides explain the lifecycle of an orchard, how the roots of oak and hazelnut trees are inoculated, and how there’s a lot of science and farming know-how that goes into a successful orchard. Growers such as Coomer Truffles, owned and run by revered chef David Coomer, also offer bespoke experiences on request.
As you’d expect, being in the heart of Australian truffle country, the option for sampling the goods isn’t limited. In Manjimup, you can score a truffle feed everywhere from the likes of local restaurants such as Sööma (Garden View Court, 51 Giblett St, Manjimup), bars and pubs such as Tall Timbers (88 Giblett St, Manjimup), and café-cum-roastery Southern Roasting Co (96 Giblett St, Manjimup). Meanwhile, Lisa Cudby, owner of Pemberton café Wild at Heart (52 Brockman St, Pemberton), is herself a truffle grower. It’s also a perfect time to taste the wines made with the region’s cool-climate grape varieties – be on the lookout for local chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and verdelho – and if you see marron on the menu, don’t skip the chance to try this locally farmed crustacean.
Heading west, the Margaret River region is home to many of the state’s best restaurants, such as Vasse Felix, Voyager Estate, Wills Domain and Glenarty Road. Chefs in the region eagerly await truffle season each year. Here you get another glimpse as to why the south-west of Western Australia is so revered for its rich food and wine culture.
Updated May 2022.