In Australia’s South West, the Margaret River region sways to the rhythms of nature, and breezes carry the whispers of Noongar traditions

Feature by: Carolyn Beasley

In Australia’s South West, a pink-tinged summer dawn is accompanied by a rustling of treetops, a gentle easterly breeze flowing across the land, stirring songbirds as they chortle. As the heat starts to build, kangaroos retreat to the shade. But welcome relief is coming, it’s the south-westerly wind, a cool, salty saviour, fresh off the ocean. Noongar Aboriginal people know this time as Birak (first summer) and Bunuru (second summer). As in all six seasons of the Noongar calendar, this wind has a voice. It speaks of culture, of perpetual movement and it calls them to Country.

The wind cycles with the seasons, puts the landscape in motion, and the swirling air laden with seeds and pollen is the building blocks of ecosystems. These are the elements that shaped the lives of Noongar people, and continue to define the nature of the Margaret River region.

^{Koomal Dreaming, Ngilgi Cave Ancient Lands Experience}

Today, visitors connecting with Noongar culture follow Josh Whiteland of Koomal Dreaming through fragrant native peppermint and coastal bushland. The Wadandi Noongar man pauses to explain seasonal bush foods and medicinal plants in this bush supermarket. The tour proceeds into the ancient limestone cavern of Ngilgi Cave where Josh breaks the silence with his didgeridoo. Visitors feel the ancient rhythms to their core, it’s a surreal moment, where time stands still.

As the warmer months fade to autumn, or Djeran in the Noongar calendar, a whimsical breeze flicks up the fallen amber-hued leaves of the grape vines in the Margaret River Wine Region. Nature’s air conditioner, the cooling sea breezes, influence the maritime climate of this premium wine region, contributing to the superb liquid offerings. Visiting a cellar door is a delight all year, but in autumn, with gentler breezes and mild temperatures, the days are perfect for alfresco dining or strolling the grounds at storied establishments like Clairault Streicker and Voyager Estate. Alternatively, take a wine tour with Wine for Dudes to visit some of the best boutique tasting experiences, all with a fun, casual vibe.

^{Singlefile Wines vineyard in Denmark}

For even more tasty tipples, venture south east to the wine region of Denmark, which nestles amid towering forests, deserted, wind-swept beaches and magical pools like Elephant Rocks. Out of town, Singlefile Wines offers a complimentary seated tasting of their fine selection. Bring a picnic and take in the peaceful vineyard, ducks on the wing and whisper of the karri trees.

Beyond the wines, the Margaret River region has long drawn the surf crowd. With bays, beaches and headlands that face a variety of locations, surfers of any ability will usually find a wave. In autumn, the offshore morning breezes are light, creating clean, big waves. For beginners, a lesson with Margaret River Surfing Academy introduces the addictive thrill of riding the ocean’s rhythm.

In the blustery, colder season of Makuru, gusty fronts from the west and south west can leave the ocean volatile and Noongar people traditionally retreated from the coast to the sheltered forested regions. Breathtaking in any season, the pale-trunked karri trees of the Boranup Forest, appear otherworldly in the rain, the wet, ghostly trunks shining through ethereal mist. But for fast-paced forest thrills, adventurers harness-up at Forest Adventures. Nineteen metres high in the Ludlow Tuart Forest, they climb, plummet and zipline through adrenaline activities.

^{Truffle Hill, Manjimup}

The crisp temperatures of winter also deliver a gourmet higlight, truffle season. The delectable fungi are grown in the rich, loamy soils of Manjimup, Pemberton and Margaret River. Book a truffle hunt and lunch at the Margaret River Truffle Farm where clever dogs sniff out the underground flavour bombs, which are then grated atop your meal.

Finally, the Noongar season of Djilba leans into more sunshine, followed by the warmth of Kambarang. Now, the spring breezes waft with the sweet scent of wattles and native wisteria. Wildflower season in the south west is breathtaking, with headlands and coastal cliffs billowing like a native cottage garden. Traditionally, Noongar elders would lead their families back to the coast to feast on seafood, threading through the pink pom poms of rice flowers, bright yellow cottonheads, and the long floral stalks of grasstrees.

Visitors in spring may also feel compelled to lace up the hiking boots and hit the Cape to Cape Track, stepping into the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park’s wonderland, rippling with colour. For immersive, multi-day adventures, Cape2Camp can lighten the load, setting up camp for hikers each day.

^{Tour guide and group, Cape to Cape Track}

In spring, humpback whales are often seen from the trail, breaching and slapping in a wind-chopped ocean. Sometimes on glassy days, it’s just their blows, puffs of mist that catch the light before vaporising into the ether. Tantalising the hikers, the whales beckon them on, a salty call from Country.

Published February 2026.