Feature by Max Brearley

From the Swan Valley region on Whadjuk Country to the Wadandi Noongar region of Western Australia’s South West and beyond, trailblazing producers have been on the organic and biodynamic journey for decades, others more recent converts.

Organics, a form of farming that eliminates chemical fertilizers and pesticides, is widely known while biodynamics sees a vineyard as an ecosystem; preparations, methods, and the lunar cycle all taking a hand in nurturing soil and resilient vines. Many winemakers say they “make wine in the vineyard,” and this is perhaps the ultimate expression of that ethos.

Cullen Wines, Margaret River

A standard bearer of biodynamic wine, Vanya Cullen had a belief, despite the naysayers, that biodynamics is better for the land on which her family has grown grapes for over fifty years. Biodynamics now plays a part in the well-regarded restaurant, using estate grown biodynamic produce. The reverence for the Diana Madeline, an exemplary Cabernet Sauvignon, vindication of a vision.

_{Burnside Organic Farm, Margaret River}

Burnside Organic Farm, Margaret River

Lara and Jamie McCall are known for sought-after avocados and capers in season, and wine from one of Margaret River’s smallest wineries. A family affair, their youngest son Dan now helps to craft their Zinfandel, and Vermentino Pet Nat a naturally sparkling wine growing in popularity. Beyond the farm you’ll find the team amidst bustling stalls of local Farmers Markets, their exquisite wines beckoning. Wander through the region’s splendours, the air alive with the essence of freshly harvested fruits and the whispers of terroir. Here, dreams are bottled, ready to be uncorked and savoured and with luxury on-farm accommodation there’s no better way to experience it.

Blind Corner, Margaret River

A leading “natural wine” producer. More than a trendy fad as is sometimes levelled, this low intervention ethos (not always organic or biodynamic, albeit it is here) is akin to how wine has been made for millennia. The cellar door has rustic charm, mirroring the laidback, surf-adjacent lifestyle of the region and its winemakers.

_{Voyager Estate, Margaret River}

Voyager Estate, Margaret River

Known for its grand cellar door and wines that leave little doubt that Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are regional cornerstones. While certification of Voyager Estate started back in 2017 and completed in 2023, organic test blocks were established almost two decades ago. Transformation doesn’t stop, a 160-hectare regenerative farm project will, in time, supply the estate restaurant. Unearth more with a tour, joining their Sommelier for a hands-on look at wine appreciation through the organic lens. 

Si Vintners, Margaret River

Iwo Jakimowicz and Sarah Morris took on their 30-acre property back in 2010, putting into practice what they’d learnt over years of hemisphere hopping, vintage to vintage. The name itself a nod to time in Spain. Using concrete egg vats and a low intervention approach. They’ve garnered a loyal following.

McHenry Hohnen, Margaret River

Now amidst biodynamic conversion, McHenry Hohnen has employed the techniques for years. At their cellar door in Forest Grove (less than 20-minutes south of Margaret River) there’s a visual representation of soil types and methods, but you’d be forgiven for just sitting back and enjoying a leisurely tasting.

_{Windows Estate Vineyard Tour, Margaret River}

Windows Estate, Margaret River

The epitome of small family wineries, Windows Estate is a labour of love. Chris and Joanne Davies have over two decades developed the property just off Caves Road, building a reputation for their wine, and now unique stays at Petit Eco Cabin, overlooking an organically grown Chardonnay block to one side and a dam with outdoor bath to the other. Groups of up to eight can book a captivating journey through the estate, guided by Chris or Jo, learning about the crucial role of vineyard work and its influence on wine quality. Complete with a private tasting at the cellar door, this experience deepens your appreciation for the interplay between land and wine.

Stormflower Vineyard, Wilyabrup

Stormflower Vineyard has a “single vineyard philosophy” making wine from only fruit grown on the property. Having opened a new onsite winery in 2020 fruit to travel less distance in harvest and experimentation with small batch wines like their Chenin Blanc and Field White. On the picnic lawn, a symphony of flavors unfolds as you craft your own platters from provisions inside and indulge with a paired wine tasting. Curate a masterpiece of culinary delights, to enjoy while the sun's golden rays embrace the lush surrounds.

Mountford Wines, Pemberton

Pemberton, three hours and forty-five minutes from Perth, is part of the Southern Forests and Valleys region, known for farming pedigree. The epicentre of southern hemisphere black truffle production they say, “what grows together, goes together.” Cool climate Pinot Noir is a real discovery for many. Established in 1987 Mountford Wines is now one of the oldest wineries in the region and has an equally storied reputation for its cider.

Harris Organic Wines, Swan Valley

The Swan Valley is Western Australia’s oldest wine growing region. Owner and winemaker Duncan Harris acquired the property in 1998 and has since gained organic certification and widened his organic production from wine to spirits. Just 30 minutes from Perth’s city centre it’s often noted that you can go from the Valley’s vineyards and restaurants to Indian Ocean views in under an hour.

Published June 2023.