Feature by Max Brearley

By European standards a few hundred kilometres could class as a road trip, but in Western Australia, the distances and the country have given me an appreciation for the road trip in its full glory, where the final destination is no more important than the stops along the way.

The South West Edge is such a trip, and one that has had me say that WA is the true “road trip state.” Others may claim the title, but they’d be hard pushed to beat this 1,200 kilometre route from Fremantle to Esperance, skirting the Indian and Southern Ocean coastlines, that take in the Bunbury Geographe region, Margaret River, the Southern Forests and Great Southern, before a final push to Esperance. The further you go, the greater the reward.

_{Duke of Orleans Bay, Esperance}

The Bunbury-Geographe region is forging an identity for itself as a gateway to the south west. Bunbury, less than two hours’ drive south of Perth promises a mix of good food and wine as well as adventure on the doorstep; a growing number of small bars and restaurants grabbing attention outside of the region. The likes of Market Eating House, with a focus on local producers and a Levantine menu, is one that in five years has gone from strength to strength. While Ferguson Valley, Capel and Donnybrook have vineyards, the notable development is for adventure seekers, the region staking a claim, especially in the Collie River Valley, as the mountain biking capital of the state.

One of Australia’s fastest growing sports, there’s more than 25 trails catering for all levels of ability. You might be accustomed to barrelling through forest trails with little fear. This is the place for you. But there’s also trails that allow the novice to take in the scenery at a gentler speed. Crank’n Cycles in Collie and the kiosk at Wellington Dam both hire bikes and essential safety gear for those who need it.

_{Arklow Trail Network, near Collie}

The food and wine scene of the Margaret River region has garnered an international reputation. Cornerstone varietals, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, stand against the best in the world.

Beyond this sensory indulgence Margaret River has an adventurous side. Ask a local is one of the most simple and effective pieces of travel advice you can get, and I’d argue that it stretches to, get a guide. The region has a wealth of small group guides that expertly tell the story of the region whilst you experience it.

Time with Josh Whiteland of Koomal Dreaming is truly unforgettable. A Wardandi cultural custodian Josh tells the story of a continuous 40,000 years of history. I’ve sat in reverent awe as Josh plays the didgeridoo deep within the Ngilgi Cave at Yallingup, cast a line at the best fishing spots, and watched as he smoked freshly harvested mussels and described the six traditional seasons. It’s not the only way to experience Aboriginal culture in the region, but it’s one of the most vivid and evocative.

_{Koomal Dreaming, Yallingup}

Dr Cam O’Beirne, owner of Margaret River Adventure Co., is an expert in aquatic rescue, meaning he’s a safe pair of hands when it comes to coasteering, what he describes as “a blend of rock-hopping, shore-scrambling, swell-riding, and rock jumping for the ultimate aquatic adventure.”

Taking to the trails once again, the Margaret River region has its own reputation for mountain biking. As with Collie River Valley there’s a wealth of tracks on which to crank the gears and outlets to hire from such as the Bike Shed in Dunsborough, The Golden Jersey in Cowaramup and the Hairy Marron in Margaret River. If four legs are more your go to, equestrian centres like Jesters Flat offer a different pace of discovery. As a novice - I personally hadn’t been on a horse for over 30 years - the atmosphere on a group ride is reassuring, with instructors riding alongside the group as we take to country lanes, and bushland. There’s no shortage of advice and encouragement.

Heading just 90 minutes east from Margaret River the Southern Forests is another renowned food region. In the past 20 years it has become the epicentre of black truffle cultivation in the Southern Hemisphere, yet follow the regions agricultural roots on a food tour from the Southern Forest Food Council and you’ll learn about the orchards of Manjimup, a multicultural mix of farming families and newer crops like avocado.

_{Manjimup truffles}

But the clue is in the name. The Southern Forests is about much more than farming and a nascent food and wine scene. Experiencing nature should be top of the list. The ancestral land of the Bibbulmun people, it’s known as Wandergarup or “place of lots of water.” Pemberton Discovery Tours hire everything from mountain bikes to wilderness tents alongside their four-wheel drive tours taking in the region. Co-owner Toni Dearle describes different ecosystems within the region. In Pemberton, 30 kilometres from the Southern Ocean you experience old growth forest, there’s the land locked Yeagarup Dunes, the mouth of the Warren River, and coastal heathland.

You’d think at this stage that it’s almost a given to say that WA’s southern regions have a reputation for food and drink. In some cases, there was no reputation previously, and visitors are now finding new places to eat and drink. But then in the case of the Great Southern it’s that it is, like Margaret River before it, gaining prominence on a national and international stage, driven primarily by the wine from its five sub regions – Albany, Denmark, Frankland River, Mount Barker and Porongurup. It’s often said that a good bottle of wine tells a story and that is true of the region as a whole, known for cold climate wines, Riesling in particular. To get a feel for the terroir of the region you can walk the vineyards but also the coastline, taking in the many deserted beaches along an often-tumultuous Southern Ocean. This maritime influence is clear in the wine. Heading to the Porongurup National Park granite domes rise, offering unforgettable views, especially at Castle Rock’s Granite Skywalk. Venturing to the Stirling Ranges, again trails and climbs – some of Western Australia’s best – could fill a number of days or even weeks.

_{Bluff Knoll, Stirling Range National Park}

In Albany, or Kinjarling, “the place of rain,” to the Menang people, there’s a chance to take perhaps a slower pace and one that’s not guided by its many food and drink options. A time to stop and consider the history of the region. The Museum of the Great Southern, which overlooks the Princess Royal Harbour takes in both the history of settlers and the Traditional Owners, who have lived on this country for many thousands of years. A permanent exhibition tells of the unique Dreaming stories, culture and the existence of stone fish traps at Marbelup on the Wilson Inlet.

The National Anzac Centre on Mount Clarence commands some of the most striking views of Albany’s natural deep-water harbour, which was the departure point for so many service men and women for the First World War. It’s a powerful reminder of individual sacrifice and the making of the Anzac legend.

Heading east from Albany on the near 500 kilometre leg to Esperance, there could be a temptation to just drive but along this stretch of coast there’s Two Peoples Bay, Mount Manypeaks, Bremer Bay and the Fitzgerald River National Park. They’re areas of interest for those concerned with the natural world as well as Aboriginal history, a coastline that sustained people for thousands of years. It’s also worth remembering that while this coast is beautiful it should also be respected. Locals and the Parks and Wildlife Service alike will warn of “huge waves and extreme swells [that] can suddenly occur even on calm days. Waves can sweep over rocky headlands. Powerful rips and undertows can occur. Fishing from rocks is extremely dangerous.” It’s not to say that you can’t enjoy it, rather that care should be taken, warning signs should be adhered to and where possible you should use local resources in the form of guides.

_{National ANZAC Centre, Albany}

Arriving in Esperance, along the Great Ocean Drive (a 40 kilometre circular loop) the coastline reveals itself, with rocky outcrops and azure waters. One of the most spectacular coastal sights in WA, but it’s only the beginning of the discovery. Recherche Archipelago, sometimes referred to as Bay of Isles, is made up of 105 islands and 1,200 "obstacles to shipping," some no more than a seagull strewn rock, but others, like Woody Island 15 kilometres offshore, are to be explored and can be your island base. Woody Island Eco Tours offer day trips as well as ocean facing glamping tents.

Lake Hillier on Middle Island until recently could only be be viewed from the air. It’s an unmissable sight of one of Western Australia’s vivid pink lakes, as well as the white sands that characterise this coastline. A light aircraft scenic flight from Esperance airport is one way to enjoy the spectacle, as is a helicopter tour from Esperance’s Esplanade. HeliSpirit tours offer not just the aerial experience but a few hours trekking on Middle Island to see Lake Hillier from the ground.

Flying over Cape Arid, Cape Le Grand, and the brilliant sands of Lucky Bay (said to have Australia’s whitest sand and home to beach loving kangaroos) it’s a vantage point that confirms that your journey is far from over; that for the well-equipped adventure seeker there’s country still to be explored.

_{Whales swimming, Cape Arid National Park coastline}

Published March 2022.