Feature by Fleur Bainger
And that’s just one of hundreds of species which can easily be seen in its turquoise waters and red-tinged ranges.
The ocean is a dreamy 23 degrees Celsius as you splash in, but you barely notice; all your attention is focused on the giant, underwater being coming towards you. Through your snorkel mask, you see a whale shark that’s longer than your car. The world’s largest fish glides through the water with barely a tail swish, its wide mouth sucking up plankton like an enormous vacuum cleaner as its patterned skin, all white dots and grey squiggly lines, shimmers in the sunlight.
One of Ningaloo's Big 3, the gentle whale shark
A two-for-one wildlife adventure
No photo will ever compare to seeing Australian wildlife up close. Whether it’s a whale shark gliding by only three metres from your water-treading body, a wallaby camouflaged against gorge rocks, a spiky echidna foraging in scrub or an emu halting traffic to cross the road, you’ve got to see it on safari in UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Marine Park, in wildlife-rich Western Australia. You’ll also discover dancing manta rays, endangered turtles and migrating whales, not to mention 500 fish species that live among 300 types of coral.
Going on safari in Ningaloo is different to other safari experiences. Here, the outback meets the ocean, granting a two-for-one land and water adventure. Wildlife sightings are incredibly reliable, and guided interactions are delivered with ecological responsibility at the core. Mixing self-exploration with educational tours is the best way to see a range of Australian animals.
Echidna in Cape Range National Park
Ocean encounters
Each year, people are drawn to witness – and swim with - the Big 3: whale sharks, humpback whales and manta rays. These creatures stick to deep waters, so day-trip tour boats (and some multi-day cruises) depart from Ningaloo’s two towns, Exmouth and Coral Bay. The eco-certified vessels use spotter planes to locate the marine animals, increasing the number of viewing opportunities and reducing the ocean miles travelled. As you journey out, guides educate you on Ningaloo’s environmentally sustainable interactions.
For whale sharks, a maximum of 10 swimmers must stay 3-4 metres away and only swim beside or behind them. Humpbacks get a 98ft berth with an audience of just five swimmers. It’s ok to get up close to manta rays, who have no barb and are smaller (yet still boast a wingspan of up to 13ft). Graceful and acrobatic, they will often swim in large circles around you. As you’d expect, touching is absolutely against the rules.
Diver with manta rays in Ningaloo Marine Park
Creatures great and small
Ningaloo is the only place in Australia where you can swim with whale sharks. Most ocean safaris take only 20 turn-taking guests, and some cap numbers at just 10 to ensure both the quality and quantity of interactions. Almost all submit their whale shark images and observations to local research scientists and universities. Safari guides love to be quizzed about Ningaloo’s nature, teaching visitors how to identify individual creatures and take part in citizen science. On-board photographers also happily offer advice on shooting underwater. The adventure is as enriching above the waterline, as below it.
While little is known about the endangered whale sharks’ movements, they reliably inhabit Ningaloo from April to July each year. Humpback whales pass through from July to October (often accompanied by orcas and other whale species), while manta rays can be seen year-round at Coral Bay, or between June and October from Exmouth. As with all nature, sightings can never be guaranteed, but creatures are so reliable that most boat operators offer a free repeat tour if you don’t see a giant of the deep.
Ningaloo reef is accessible by wading in from the sand, so you can also snorkel for smaller creatures independently. At Turquoise Bay, south of Exmouth, a gentle current allows you to drift peacefully over colourful coral and tropical fish, while turtle sightings are common in the Oyster Stacks sanctuary zone. Coral Bay faces several large coral bommies, which are surrounded by brightly decorated fish.
Safari on land or underwater from Sal Salis near Exmouth
Safari on land
Being home to the world’s longest – and most accessible – fringing reef means Ningaloo’s marine life tends to hog all the limelight. But fascinating land-based animals live moments away from the glassy shallows and sandy beaches. You’ll find them in the low scrub, gorges and caves of Cape Range National Park. The rugged, red ranges harbour elusive rock wallabies who blend into their surroundings so cleverly they seem invisible at first. You might spot one on an early morning hike, or during a slow cruise of Yardie Creek, a waterway that flows gently between mottled cliffs the colour of rusted copper. Watch out for ospreys, egrets and honeyeater birds while you’re at it.
Meanwhile, emus literally stop traffic in Exmouth. The tall, flightless birds are given right of way on the roads – a privilege they seem to enjoy taking. Others are seen running though native grasses along Cape Range’s coastal flats.
Emu in Cape Range National Park
Echidnas are most easily seen as they snuffle up ants on the side of the road. Approach them gently so they don’t ball up or dig into the earth to protect themselves. On a Ningaloo safari, it’s safe to get out of your car to see these wild animals, but while adventuring, it’s wise to wear closed shoes in case of insects or reptiles.
Fast Facts
How to get there: From Perth, fly 2hrs to Learmonth Airport or drive 697mi to Coral Bay or 776mi to Exmouth - in fact, The Coral Coast Highway is one of the greatest road trips on Earth.
When to go: April to October, when wildlife is abundant and average daily temperatures range from 24 to 33 degrees C.
Where to stay: There are only 16 solar-powered safari tents at Sal Salis, a lone eco retreat tucked into sand dunes facing Ningaloo Reef. Private, exclusive and passionately sustainable, the real beds are furnished with organic cotton, the bathrooms with chemical-free eco products and the showers are allocated 20 litres of water per day. There is no mobile phone service, leaving nature uninterrupted. Five per cent of turnover goes to the conservation of the surrounding Cape Range National Park. Exmouth is home to a number of hotels, most notably Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort. Hotel accommodations tend to be fewer and simpler at Coral Bay; a highlight is Ningaloo Reef Resort.
Alternately, there are a number of basic bush campgrounds along the Ningaloo Coast. You’ll need to bring everything, including drinking water. Expect drop toilets and no shower facilities.
Snorkel with turtles metres from the shore at Turquoise Bay
Published September 2021