Feature by Jo Baker
There’s a stillness in the patchwork of slumbering vines, mist-cloaked pastures and dew-blanketed orchards of the Margaret River Region (Wadandi Boodja) that lulls the mind in winter. But this ancient land never sleeps. Kitchen gardens are bursting with robust flavours, and just below the surface of gravel-dense soils, the scent of black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is quietly intensifying.
Conditions are ripe for a deeply immersive edible journey - hunting with truffle dogs, digging fruits from the earth by hand, and sharing the foraged feast with good friends.
Throughout the short harvest season, Charmaine and Ben Warner of The Margaret River Truffle Farm are graciously opening their orchard and partnering with Rústico at Hay Shed Hill to offer a time-limited, truffle-inspired Hunt & Lunch experience.
“We want to open up the world of truffle in a way that feels authentic and personal,” says Ben. “Most people never get to see what goes into producing truffle — the land, the dogs, the patience involved. This experience lets people step into that story, then enjoy the reward of it at the table.”
Margaret River Truffle Farm, Cowaramup (Credit: WithBaxter)
Just beyond the farm gate, Alby the black Lab truffle dog gives the waggiest welcome as Charmaine and Ben lead the way to the intimate tasting room.
Inside, chilled bubbles pour as Ben passes around a Class I truffle sample, freshly cleaned and chilled from yesterday’s haul.
“Don’t be shy, give it a cuddle,” smiles Ben, warmly inviting guests to snuffle its sweet, nutty, forest notes.
While the aromatics unfold in seductive layers, he digs into the history and subterranean life of black winter truffles, demystifies what classifies a prize $2,600-per-kilo truffle, and drops some priceless storage, cooking and pairing tips to get the most from your edible investment.
Truffle-inspired Hunt & Lunch experience at Margaret River Truffle Farm, Cowaramup (Credit: WithBaxter)
And now, the hunt. Booted and rugged up, the group steps excitedly into the low, soft sunlight, following Alby the truffle dog through the first row of golden oak and hazelnut trees. All eyes are fixed on that snout as it sweeps the dewy base of each trunk.
“We’re a young producer, so every year we produce more and more truffle, and Alby’s getting better and better at pinpointing exactly where they are,” says Charmaine.
One little scratch of the soil with a paw signals the first strike of black gold, and Charmaine starts with the shovel, lifting scoops of soil to her nose and offering a sniff. It’s surprising how it carries the signature scent. She calls forward a guest to get his hands in the dirt. Working his fingers gently around the truffle, he pulls out the spoils and breathes in its heady perfume with wide-eyed delight.
Truffle hunt, Margaret River Truffle Farm, Cowaramup (Credit: WithBaxter)
The tasting that follows is just as eagerly anticipated. Perfect circles of fresh-shaven truffle over creamy camembert, and a sampling of fine-crafted truffle produce, including honey and chocolate - a delightful symphony of musky sweetness.
A fresh Class I truffle is packed ready for the short ride to the long table at Rustico at Hayshed Hill, where the prize is proudly displayed under a glass cloche, poised ready to bring freshly-shaven aromatic theatrics to the mindfully curated five-course degustation.
Truffle lunch with Rústico Head Chef Mike McAllister (Credit: WithBaxter)
“Truffle is all about simplicity and timing. When it’s fresh, you don’t need to overcomplicate it. We’re letting the ingredient lead — layering it through the menu in a way that builds flavour across the whole experience,” says Rústico Head Chef, Mike McAllister.
Delicately balanced beef tartare and seared scallop lemon truffle risotto build to a robust crescendo of braised beef cheeks.
“It brings it back to the traditional wine and truffle roots. A Bordelaise sauce made with the fruits of the first vines planted at the Hayshed Hill vineyard, and big, hearty flavours that go so well with the earthiness of truffle and celebrate this special partnership with our incredible local growers.”
Truffle lunch at Rústico, Hay Shed Hill Wines (Credit: WithBaxter)
There’s something about this deeper connection to ingredients and the land they’re raised from that just makes food taste infinitely better. Tourism Western Australia’s ambassador for food and drink and Fervor’s avid advocate of edible wanders, Dreamer: Paul Iskov, couldn’t agree more.
“Just being able to get your hands in the dirt, dig up a truffle, hold it up to your nose and smell its beautifully intense earthy aroma straight from the ground. That’s pretty special,” says Paul.
Truffle lunch at Rústico, Hay Shed Hill Wines (Credit: WithBaxter)
He’s a winter person through and through. A lover of cold morning surfs. Warming up with a coffee and a decadent cheese toasty. Evenings with friends, enjoying smoky winter burners. Spending time out on Wadandi country with local Indigenous guides.
“Listening to their stories, learning about the traditional flavours of the region and season. It’s an experience unique to the South West that really inspires a deeper respect for native ingredients,” says Paul.
Whether it’s wandering truffle orchards with the hands (and paws) that raise them or foraging herbaceous coastal bushland with the cultural custodians of this ancient land, Margaret River’s winter edible journeys nourish heart, body and soul long after their last dance on the palate.
Published in July 2026