Looking for beautiful beaches, remote national parks and untouched islands? You've come to the right place. Read on for our guide to Esperance's sights, food and accommodation.
Feature by Max Brearley
Esperance (Kepa Kurl) has a country charm, beautiful, secluded beaches, the Recherché Archipelago stretching into the Southern Ocean; a gateway to the Cape Le Grand National Park, and beyond to Cape Arid.
Cape Le Grand National Park
Cape Le Grand National Park with its Coastal Trail can be accessed for day trips from Esperance, or better, pitch up for a few nights, or even a week. The trail works its way along the coast from Le Grand Beach, where you’ll find a popular DPAW campsite (with few pitches, be sure to book, parkstay.dpaw.wa.gov.au), then on to Rossiter Bay. This 15km walk takes around 9 hours. With varying degrees of difficulty, it can be broken into sections taking in Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay (where you’ll also find an ocean-side campsite).
Whilst walking it in one go has its appeal for experienced hikers, breaking it up is a good option; spending a morning hiking, an afternoon on the sand at Lucky Bay, where you’ll find the Lucky Bean coffee van, and kangaroos drawn by the freshwater streams running across the sands, believed to be Australia’s whitest.
Factor in a steep hike up Frenchman Peak, said to resemble the shape of the hats worn by French troops. The Aboriginal community know it as Mandooboornup, a place central to the Walich (eagle) Dreaming story; a mother eagle nested on the peak carrying two children who disobeyed their elders and dropping them in the ocean; represented by two offshore rocks.
Lucky Bay
Cape Arid National Park
Cape Arid National Park, rewards those who go the extra distance, because much of the park is only accessible by 4WD. At the western side, around Duke of Orleans Bay there are some accessible beaches. Call into the Condingup Tavern (Corner of Ayre & Parish St, Condingup), a great stop for a hearty counter meal or to stock up at the General Store.
Cape Arid National Park
Recherche Archipelago
The Recherché Archipelago is made of 105 islands, and many more ‘obstacles to shipping’, its name pointing to the shared history on this coast. A French expedition named it Recherché after one of the ships in the fleet, Espérance, being another ship. Its maritime history is rich, being part of the stories of Black Jack Anderson, Australia’s only recorded pirate.
On Woody Island, take to the paths, walk the island for the day, or stay overnight in one of the island’s eco tents. The waters around the island are explored on the way out with Woody Island Eco Tours. Boarding at the Taylor Street jetty the journey takes in sea and birdlife, from white bellied sea eagles off Charlie Island, to Cape Barren geese and seals basking on rocks.
Woody Island Eco Tours
Eating and drinking
Back on the mainland, Esperance has in recent years started to cultivate a food scene. Taylor Street Quarters (1 Taylor St, Esperance) has a prime harbour side spot, where chef-owner Dean Wood has created one of the region’s favourite eateries. The British chef is keeping Esperance locals fed and watered; the coffee machine pumping from early, and lunch on the oceanside deck a locals' tip not to be ignored. A casual menu is in full flow in the daytime, while evening sees Wood raise the culinary stakes.
Fish Face (1 James St, Esperance) does a brisk trade on takeout fish and chips but be sure to book a table for the busy restaurant. Grilled, battered or crumbed, the chefs here are working with predominantly local fish: Samson, Queen Snapper, Gummy, Nannygai, Ling, and Trevally. Also check out the daily specials board, for classic surf and turf, pasta dishes and more.
You can't leave Esperance without visiting Tiff Brown and her team at Bread Local. What began as a small home bakery has grown into a community meeting place and a destination bakery renowned for its artisan craftsmanship. Every loaf reflects a commitment to quality, connection, and local spirit, making it as much a gathering place as somewhere to pick up your daily bread. For those looking for a morning coffee or a light bite in town, Little Local, part of the Bread Local family, continues the same philosophy of thoughtful food, great coffee, and warm country hospitality.
Travel around the Golden Outback region from Esperance to Kalgoorlie (Karlkurla) and you'll find Lucky Bay Brewing Co (Lot 16 Barook Road) on tap and in cans. Head for the source where Nigel Metz, a grain researcher turned brewer, uses local wheat and barley, raw, in his brews; an unusual move, but one that's got beer lovers talking for all the right reasons.
Bread Local, Esperance
Accommodation
Esperance has a wealth of accommodation options, but Esperance Chalet Village (49 Frank Freeman Drive, Bandy Creek) is a destination in itself. A labour of love for Fiona and Matt Shillington, Sydney sea changers who took classic A-Frames, gave them some TLC and created one of the region's most Instagrammable spots.
Box Hill is another stay worth seeking out. More than a scenic escape, it is a destination designed for sensory discovery, inviting guests to reconnect and fully immerse themselves in nature. Just a short drive from Esperance, this bespoke off-grid retreat offers two adults-only cabins thoughtfully designed for simplicity, comfort and a seamless blend of seclusion and rural charm.
Set across 650 acres of untouched landscape, each cabin may be small in stature but is rich in detail, with sweeping views across rolling countryside. Sunrise over the hills, pristine night skies and the quiet stillness of the surrounding bush encourage guests to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the region.
The retreat also serves as an ideal base for exploring Esperance's natural attractions. From rugged coastlines and hidden coves to the pristine beaches that define this part of Western Australia, the region's highlights are all within easy reach. Visitors can venture out to discover the Recherche Archipelago, browse local markets, or simply enjoy the relaxed charm of Esperance township before returning to the tranquillity of Box Hill.
Box Hill, Esperance
Updated October 2026.